The basic design and structural integrity of the steel
channel system is similar to the yurt design described at the beginning of the
book. However, for clarity, I have opted to describe the steps involved in
construction, subsequent to the building of the platform.
Begin by scribing a circle that matches the perimeter of
your proposed yurt. Install a screw at the center point of this circle,
attaching a string to the screw. Extend the string to the radius length of the
yurt circle (In this case, eight feet) and attached a carpenter’s pencil to the
end point of the string. Then, making sure that the string remains taut, scribe
the circumference of the yurt floor.
Now, take each of your eight-foot lengths of perforate
1-inch angle aluminum and cut into twenty-four inch lengths. At the 12-inch
point, cut a notch into the steel halfway through (cut one side only) so that
you can slightly bend the piece in an eight-degree bend. Begin at the left-hand
edge of your proposed door location and secure the first piece with four 1-inch
screws and washers. Allow a slight gap between the first piece and the net one,
which you install, like you did with the first, along the scribed line, working
to your left. Continue around the entire circle.
Your channels should look like that in these first three pictures.
You will have the option of using three-quarter inch
plumbing strapping or the same eight-foot lengths of perforated aluminum or steel
angle to connect the wall segments at the top plates later.
Next, cut the four-foot by eight-foot rigid insulation into
two pieces two feet wide. You now will trim the lengths to eighty-four inches
long.
Notch the eight-foot lengths of 1 5/8 steel channel (studs)
at a point six inches from each end, cutting both sides so that the short
pieces can fold at right angles (do not fold yet). Cut the flat steel into 16
inch lengths, for six pieces per length. (see photo below). For greater
structural strength, you may wish to cut the lengths to 19 inches with one inch
of waste per length.
Next, slide the channel onto the long edges of the two-foot
rigid insulation sections. You may have to spread the channel slightly to fit
the insulation in the groove. (see photo below)
Bend the notched ends over at right angles. Insert one piece of the flat steel at each end, under the bent segment. (see photo)
Using a small drill bit, drill two holes in each segment of
bent channel, though the flat steel. Then, using appropriately sized
self-tapping screws, secure each flat metal piece to the bent end sections of
channel.
For a sixteen-foot diameter yurt, you should now have twenty-three
panels.
Make sure that you have an assortment of eight-foot braces
for the next step (ideally, 2 by 4s).
As you did with the bottom plate ring, begin installing the
panels from the left side of the door location, working to your left.
Slide the first panel in so that it fits exactly in the
two-foot space of each angled segment of slotted angle that is secured to the
platform. Each of the two-foot lengths of angle that is bent to eight degrees
will overlap the base of each panel exactly half way, with each wall section
fitting into the space tightly. If you have not allowed enough of a gap between
each of the floor bottom plate angle segments, you may have to re-space the
pieces as you go along.
Once you have set the wall panel into place, put a brace in
position to hold the wall vertically (see next photo), securing the brace to the
wall segment and to the platform. Make sure that the section is perfectly
perpendicular.
Move around the perimeter of the yurt, installing several
sections. Now, return to the first section working your way around to the last,
securing the bottom of the panel, through the steel channel, to the floor.
Once you have installed all wall segments, construct the door frame according to the
process outlined in chapter 1 of this book.
Ensure that all wall segments are snug together and
perpendicular on the edges as well as the sides. If they are not, the segments
will not fit properly. It may also be an indication that your platform is not
level.
Now, using the plumbing strapping, moved around the exterior
of the walls, installing the strapping with four screws per wall segment to the
top flanged parts of the steel channels. This will hold the walls in place. As
added insurance, you may choose to install strapping along the top edge of the
plates, as well.
The walls should now appear as in the picture below.
In the next step, you will make your roof rafter ring.
