Yurt Design: Rigid Insulation and Steel Channel Construction Part 1

 

The basic design and structural integrity of the steel channel system is similar to the yurt design described at the beginning of the book. However, for clarity, I have opted to describe the steps involved in construction, subsequent to the building of the platform.

Begin by scribing a circle that matches the perimeter of your proposed yurt. Install a screw at the center point of this circle, attaching a string to the screw. Extend the string to the radius length of the yurt circle (In this case, eight feet) and attached a carpenter’s pencil to the end point of the string. Then, making sure that the string remains taut, scribe the circumference of the yurt floor.

Now, take each of your eight-foot lengths of perforate 1-inch angle aluminum and cut into twenty-four inch lengths. At the 12-inch point, cut a notch into the steel halfway through (cut one side only) so that you can slightly bend the piece in an eight-degree bend. Begin at the left-hand edge of your proposed door location and secure the first piece with four 1-inch screws and washers. Allow a slight gap between the first piece and the net one, which you install, like you did with the first, along the scribed line, working to your left. Continue around the entire circle.

Your channels should look like that in these first three pictures.

 

You will have the option of using three-quarter inch plumbing strapping or the same eight-foot lengths of perforated aluminum or steel angle to connect the wall segments at the top plates later.

Next, cut the four-foot by eight-foot rigid insulation into two pieces two feet wide. You now will trim the lengths to eighty-four inches long.

Notch the eight-foot lengths of 1 5/8 steel channel (studs) at a point six inches from each end, cutting both sides so that the short pieces can fold at right angles (do not fold yet). Cut the flat steel into 16 inch lengths, for six pieces per length. (see photo below). For greater structural strength, you may wish to cut the lengths to 19 inches with one inch of waste per length.

Next, slide the channel onto the long edges of the two-foot rigid insulation sections. You may have to spread the channel slightly to fit the insulation in the groove. (see photo below)

                                    

 

Bend the notched ends over at right angles. Insert one piece of the flat steel at each end, under the bent segment. (see photo)

 

Using a small drill bit, drill two holes in each segment of bent channel, though the flat steel. Then, using appropriately sized self-tapping screws, secure each flat metal piece to the bent end sections of channel.

For a sixteen-foot diameter yurt, you should now have twenty-three panels.

Make sure that you have an assortment of eight-foot braces for the next step (ideally, 2 by 4s).

As you did with the bottom plate ring, begin installing the panels from the left side of the door location, working to your left.

Slide the first panel in so that it fits exactly in the two-foot space of each angled segment of slotted angle that is secured to the platform. Each of the two-foot lengths of angle that is bent to eight degrees will overlap the base of each panel exactly half way, with each wall section fitting into the space tightly. If you have not allowed enough of a gap between each of the floor bottom plate angle segments, you may have to re-space the pieces as you go along.

Once you have set the wall panel into place, put a brace in position to hold the wall vertically (see next photo), securing the brace to the wall segment and to the platform. Make sure that the section is perfectly perpendicular.

Move around the perimeter of the yurt, installing several sections. Now, return to the first section working your way around to the last, securing the bottom of the panel, through the steel channel, to the floor.

Once you have installed all wall segments,  construct the door frame according to the process outlined in chapter 1 of this book.

Ensure that all wall segments are snug together and perpendicular on the edges as well as the sides. If they are not, the segments will not fit properly. It may also be an indication that your platform is not level.

Now, using the plumbing strapping, moved around the exterior of the walls, installing the strapping with four screws per wall segment to the top flanged parts of the steel channels. This will hold the walls in place. As added insurance, you may choose to install strapping along the top edge of the plates, as well.

The walls should now appear as in the picture below.

 

In the next step, you will make your roof rafter ring.