Yurt Portability

Yurt

One of the so-called advantages touted by suppliers of the lattice-and-canvas flexible wall yurt design is that the system is portable.  On the surface, that claim seems credible.  Fabric or poly weave skins, ultra-light pvc or wood lattice a light rafter ring and bubble/foil insulation all contribute to the perception of portability. 

It is true that each, or all, of these items are portable, if one considers only the weight and space.  But true portability also requires ease of assembly and disassembly.  Here, the flexible wall yurt fails.

First, consider that erection of a simple 16-foot diameter flexible wall yurt requires the expertise and strength of two to four people.  To hold the rafter ring in place, for example, requires two people, while another one or two install the rafters.  The assembly of the lattice walls requires two to three people to place the curved segments in place, while hoisting the skins into position also requires more than one person.  Typically, assembly of a lattice-design ger takes at least eight hours, not including the deck or floor.

On the disassembly side, things are almost as complex, requiring care and precision in taking each piece apart in sequence.  On a windy day, the task is monumental, with the risk of damage to the fabric or window plastics a major cause of concern.

The concept of a yurt being portable, to be consistent with the Mongol original yurt design, simply is unrealistic.  In fact, the Himalayan tents generally were only moved twice a year, at most, so even they were not intended to be purely portable. But today’s outdoorsman may be seeking that ability to move from place to place.  The answer is the lightweight rigid (not solid) wall system. 

The yurts constructed by EasYurt provide that ability, with their EPS rigid insulation walls and roof system, routed rafters that allow foam insulation to rest in channels, and floor deck joists that have channels cut in 2 by 6 dimensional lumber to reduce weight by fifty percent while maintaining strength. 

It is true that EasYurts offer a budget concept, with a solid (rather than clear acrylic) dome vent, lighter (14 oz) poly tarp skins as opposed to heavy (22 oz) or canvas skins and less attention to aesthetic design.  However, their prices are at least 45% lower than the nearest competitor (and as much as 78% lower than other suppliers), and their designs all include deck floors (which no other supplier offers).

I have assembled an EasYurt in under 2.5 hours, and disassembled that same unit in under two hours, by myself.  Truthfully, these yurts are simple in design and appearance, but I also can find replacement parts, if needed, at any local lumber yard.  As a seasonal camping unit, or as a summer guest house, the system is perfect.  However, I am reluctant to spend a Manitoba winter in one, as it has only R7.5 insulation value and winters here are bitter!  But, I although I have used conventional yurts such as Colorado Yurts, I would be similarly reluctant to winter in any other commercial unit. 

Yurt suppliers have found a wide client base.  Fortunately, there is such a diversity of products that you can pick and choose the right one for your preferences.  Just be sure that you research their attributes, rather than rely on manufacturer claims of portability, ease of assembly and comfort in all weather.

Yurt Drawbacks and Advantages

So you have looked at modern yurts, and are convinced that you would love to live in such a structure.  The salesman tells you all of the great things about the yurt (there are many), and you are more enthused than ever.  The price tag is presented, and you learn that yurts cost anywhere from one tenth to one fifth of a similarly sized bungalow. You are told that a yurt can be assembled within a couple of days.  So, knowing that you will be mortgage-free the instant that the home is erected, and you will be living in this space-age creation (that was first constructed several thousand years ago in the Slavic and Mongolian regions), you jump at the chance to go minimal with this unique idea.  But, there’s a lot more to be considered before you buy!

While yurts do hold great appeal, and while yurt living has a lot of advantages, there are myriad drawbacks, impediments and disadvantages to consider, as well as significant design and sizing options, depending on your region and geography.

Before we look at design considerations, reflect on a few of the more obscure issues that become very significant once you have moved in.  In our locale, for instance, we commune with nature in a very intimate way, with black bear, deer, raccoons & skunks, wolves & coyotes, weasel, mice, squirrels, an army of insects, garter snakes, birds and so on.  This interaction with nature is, for the most part, enjoyable. 

However, when the bear gets up close and personal, you don’t want to be cooking inside a flexible wall yurt, with plastic windows.  A solid wall yurt, raised off the ground is a must. 

When the skunks, weasels and squirrels take up residence under the building, there goes the neighbourhood.  Consequently, an effective mesh screen and lattice barrier is vital to keep the predators and vermin away.  Sure, the weasel will eradicate the mice, but that leaves the problem of a noxious weasel!  Skunks are fairly easily relocated, since they do not care to be in close proximity to us.  It is reciprocal.  Squirrels offer greater resistance and, like raccoons, can wreak havoc on the tarpaulins.  Our yurt integrates so well into its surroundings that a raccoon family has torn holes in the roof tarpaulin, merely by climbing onto it.  Squirrels leave only pin-sized holes, but more of them.

Birds are much more difficult to deal with. Their use of the yurt roof tarpaulin for target practice is a mere annoyance, but their clamouring across that same roof scratches the fabric as much as any squirrel.

Wolves are a great experience, while coyotes, after you have been away from the yurt for a week or so, do not hesitate to move in, burrowing little caves under shelters.

Insects, like mice, pose a major problem.  No yurt should have carpeting inside, because of the risk of ant, tick and spider infestations.  As tightly as you seal the walls and flooring, insects find entrances.  With flexible wall yurts, mice are a major issue.  This problem is eliminated with well-built solid wall designs.

Overall, though, the advantage of being in close contact with nature in your yurt outweighs the problems that such contact poses, if you prepare for these intruders and guests.  Because of the tent-like assembly, you are intimate with the outside world, hearing almost every sound.  As well, by using design and colour options (camouflage, etc.) for your tarps, the yurt may blend discretely into its environment.

The basic yurt design lends itself to several drawbacks. 

Flexible wall yurts, for instance, have walls that are less than two inches thick.  Even with the space-age bubble and foil insulation employed, you will experience more rapid heating and cooling variations inside this building.  However, a solid wall yurt can be constructed of conventional studding, and insulated to higher levels using fibreglass matt insulation as well as bubble & foil or Styrofoam foil combinations.  On the other hand, a yurt, because of its circular design and open concept, heats and cools much more effectively than a similarly sized bungalow.  For example, our 600 square-foot yurt can be heated during minus 25 temperatures with a small radiant propane heater (4-6,000 BTUs), and a 20 pound tank will last nearly a week.  A 600 square foot house would require triple that amount of fuel and still have cold and hot zones.

It is impossible to use standard glass windows in a flexible wall yurt.  Consequently, the norm is to install single-sheet heavy plastic windows, which transmit a great deal of the heat or cooling between interior and exterior.  A solid wall yurt, on the other hand, can accommodate standard window units (smaller sizes).  Doors pose similar issues, and, more so, because most yurt vertical walls are 6’6” to 7’ – less than standard door frame height.

Other infrastructure poses challenges, too. All wiring must be routed through conduit, as it is installed on the outside of the walls framing, rather than through it.  An option is to use low voltage wiring and inverters throughout the building.  Plumbing, too, is installed in plain view.  Of course, this method of installation is much easier and quicker. 

Due to the open design of these homes, privacy is impacted, and closet space is at a premium.  Creative layouts can offset these concerns.

Other considerations include safe heating systems.  Open flame is very risky in fabric yurts.  With solid wall designs, flame retarding materials and fire-rated wall boards can be installed.  Yurts may be purchased with mounting for chimney egress, but pay close attention to sparks that may burn through the roof tarpaulin!

Other problems that may arise include condensation issues in cold weather, when warm, moist air rises and contacts the thinly insulated ceiling materials, condensing and falling inside the building.  If tarpaulins (particularly roof tarpaulins) are not skin-tight, wind causes the tarp to billow which, in turn, packs down any matt insulation used and reduces that R-value. While the wind effect against a yurt is minimized because of the round design, this means that there are no leeward sides or areas next to the yurt, where you can huddle against the cool breeze.  That also allows smoke and loose sparks to migrate around the building during the winter.

Yurts, almost always, do not meet zoning demands of any urban jurisdiction, and, therefore, do not qualify for permits.  If you are building in remote locations, this will not be an issue, and some solid-wall designs, indeed, can obtain engineer certification.  Proper design and construction practices should be employed regardless of whether the building meets code.

Most of us choose yurts as our living option because of its simplicity and eco-friendliness.  Simplicity equates to Spartan, and Spartan means less luxury.  The yurt is simple.  That, in turn, should eliminate the expectation of opulence.  If you want opulence, stay in the city!  The yurt offers a wonderful escape and alternative to conventional housing, but be prepared for the drawbacks, as well as the advantages.

A Manitoba Winter in Our Yurt

It’s only November 23, and we’ve seen Mother Nature at her worst!
When we decided to build our yurt in the bush lands of Manitoba, we were thrilled to be able to “commune with nature.” So far, it’s been a pretty one-sided conversation!
Throughout the spring and early summer, record rainfalls prevented us from building our road – 2/3 mile winding through thick woodlands and meadow. The autumn saw another deluge, with over 100 mm of rainfall in one week.
A wonderfully warm October lulled us into complacency: we’d be able to stay in the yurt until at least December 1, even with only a bush trail on which to drive our Prius to our home.
The beginning of November, Mother Nature began to flex her muscle. Wind gusts of over 100 kph (60-65 mph) hit, but the yurt stood, unflinching. Just to be on the safe side, we purchased tire chains for the car, and stocked up on three 20-pound tanks of propane for the yurt.
Then, a cold snap – Minus 18C (0F) – forewarned us of things to come. On November 18, 20 centimetres of snow (8 inches), followed by 60-70 kph winds (40 mph) drove us out of the yurt for a couple of days. The first night back, the thermometer hit -20C, and another 7 cm of snow. For two days, we shovelled a roadway 950 yards long, and were able to drive in.
Ha! We beat Mother Nature! Not bad for a 59-year-old and his 51-year-old wife.
What fools we were. Sunday night, the wind chill hit -22C, with a new low of -24 during the early part of the next day. Today, we received another 2-4 cm. of snow. That’s not bad, compared to what is coming tomorrow. Fifteen centimetres is predicted, with high winds and cold temperatures to follow. Next week, another snow storm is on the way.
This area receives an average of 110-120cm from November 1 to the following April 30 in a typical year. We will have received 45 cm. by November 24, with a possibility of 60 centimetres by November 30. It’s time to pack it in.
The yurt, though, can certainly handle the winter. A full snow load of 30 centimetres hasn’t caused the roof to even flinch. Inside the yurt, we didn’t feel the slightest breeze when the sixty-five mph winds hit. At -24C, the yurt remained so warm that we had to turn off our main heat, relying on a 13,500 BTU propane furnace for our only heat.
A couple have problems have emerged, though.
Because of the lighter insulation in the domed roof, and the fact that the heat rises and pools there when we turn off the fans, we have experienced a lot of condensation falling from the foil-backed bubble insulation that lines the inside of the roof.
Around the inside perimeter of the yurt, where walls meet the floor, moisture and some frost have accumulated. We resolved this by placing one-inch rigid foam insulation under the outer tarpaulin layer, extending it 6 inches below the wall. This provides a wind barrier, as well as insulation.
And, our composting toilet system isn’t letting the waste fall readily into the accumulator. That problem, we discovered, was caused because we used too little water to wash the solids through. We’ll take care of that next spring, when we return.
For now, Mother Nature wins. I’m not ready for weekly battles with a shovel against a foot of snow, so we’ll start our yurt experience again, when the weather permits.

Yurt Totem Poles Stand for Family & Friends

We have a pole in the centre of our yurt. More correctly, we have two poles. Before you judge too harshly, these poles are neither dancing poles, nor firemen’s poles. They are prospective totem poles.
If moving from a middle-class home in suburbia to a Mongolian tent in the backwoods of Manitoba was not sufficiently unusual, we have incorporated a more clearly defined oddity in the living area of our yurt. Two spruce poles, crowned by a cross-member pole and crowned with a spiral of collar ties for the free-span truss boards, form our tribute to the iconic Pacific First Nations artefacts.
Granted, our future totems are significantly smaller than the mammoth totems along the Pacific Northwest coast. At an average diameter of 8 inches, they are paltry in size. They were also redundant in the yurt structure, as the roof assembly had sufficient strength without the addition of the centre posts and collar ties.
These totem poles, though, have a much more social purpose. On a counter adjacent to the poles we have an assortment of carving chisels and shaping knives. At our official “yurt-warming” party, scheduled for later this year, we will launch the first “community carving” in Manitoba (or so we believe). Guests will be invited to choose a spot, select their tools, and carve the gargoyle, icon, angel or creation of their choice – no limits. Of course, space is limited, as is time. Accordingly, future guests will be invited to add their own touches to existing carved artworks, or create their own in new space on the poles. Required is individual accountability: each carver will be asked to carve his/her initials in that masterpiece. In this manner, we will have a record of our guests’ visits, an insight into their creative sides, and the most original artwork available.
Cave and rock paintings, innukshuk statues and totems were all communications tools as well as expressions of individualism in our early Canadian culture. It is our intent to continue that tradition, in our little corner (or circle) of the country, and give vent to our friends’ creativity. Want to contribute your own ideas? How about sending us a drawing, photo or sketch of the icon that you would like to see gracing the totems in our yurt. We will be posting photos of the progress on these unique structures, beginning early next year. Let us, and our friends, bring your artistry to life!

Yurt Wall & Roof Preparation

Once the walls of our yurt and the roof rafters were in place, there was a strong urge to apply the tarpaulins, just so we could see the “finished” product. However, several preliminary steps were required, to ensure that the treated fabric would last, that the building was wind- and rain-proof, and that the structural integrity was intact.
Hurricane ties were installed on the outer end of each rafter, in addition to the two screws holding the rafter ends in place. Although wind resistance is minimized with the circular design, screws are insufficient to provide the strength needed, as screws have a tendency to shear. In fact, in most jurisdictions, screws are not acceptable, according to the Building Code, for framing.
Hurricane ties were also installed on the roof ring end of the rafters, as a secondary support for the six-inch bolts securing each inner rafter end.
To reduce lateral sway, crossties were installed, earlier, at approximately the midway point of each rafter (see prior blog posts).
Where screws extruded from each plate joining the two-foot wall segments, the ends of the screws were treated with latex caulk, to reduce rub friction against the inner layer of tarpaulin.
At the top edge of the roof ring, we fastened a rubber edging, to prevent rubbing of the tarpaulin against the sharp edge of the ring. We used a rubber molding from an old automobile windshield, fastened with roofing nails to the ring.
Lastly, an inner layer of tarpaulin was secured around the perimeter and on the roof of the yurt. These tarpaulins provide an additional rain and barrier, but, more importantly, act as a buffer between the final, outer tarpaulin layer and the framing. The tarps cost less than $90 each, and should extend the life of the outer tarpaulin by 3-5 years (a cost saving of more than $1,600).
Just as in conventional buildings, caulk was applied around the windows and door, and drip mold & j-channel framed the openings.
One additional feature that we incorporated into the design was a roof-top vent system, to improve air flow. This vent was constructed (see picture) of osb, and oriented in a north/south direction, so that the vent windows can be opened on either (or both) end(s) to maximize ventilation.
In our next post, we will discuss finishing touches and exterior tarpaulin application. The following article will provide information on interior finishing stages. The last three articles will provide information on setting up our solar, wind & biomass energy systems, as well as our grey water recovery systems.
Should you desire a complete material list, contact me at bizdynamics1@gmail.com.

Assembling the Yurt Walls

There is the easy way to build a yurt: seek out a quality supplier of yurt kits, select your options &size, and then make your purchase. There is a more difficult way to build a yurt: tour the yurt demonstrations of a variety of suppliers and build based on those model units. Then there is the road less travelled: design & build your own. This is the option my wife and I have chosen.
Conventional, commercial yurt walls are constructed using lattice wrapped with pvc tarpaulin material. A thin aircraft cable is interlaced in the top openings of the latticework, and tightened using a turnbuckle. This structure holds the walls inward in a circle, while the weight of the rafters resting on the cable pushes the walls outward. Stasis, strength and stability thus are achieved.
Our wall structure begins with a 2*3 framework installed around the inside perimeter of a 24” by 84” piece of 7/16” thick oriented strand board. Since our yurt is twenty-eight feet in diameter, with a circumference of approximately eighty-eight feet, 44 sections are needed. Each section meets the next at an eight degree angle, requiring that one of the two vertical 2” by 3” studs is cut with an eight degree taper.
To lay out the bottom plate, forty-four 2-foot lengths of 2 by 3 are cut in a slight “vee” shape, at an eight degree angle, as well. Each wall segment will meet the next at the point of the “vee,” with a one-foot extension extending into the adjacent section base. By fastening the wall to these bottom plate segments, a solid circular frame is created.
As each section is placed standing adjoining the next, a top plate, identical to the bottom plate segment, is secured along the top 2” by 3” horizontal piece of the wall.
After making sure that all wall segments are vertically plumb, metal joining plates are fastened to join the segments at the top and bottom of each wall segment.
Next, windows and the main door are framed in place, in the same manner as a conventional wall and door or window buck are installed.
For our yurt, we purchased the 7’6” high by 94’ long tarpaulin from a New Brunswick supplier. The fabric intentionally was ordered longer than the actual circumference of the yurt, to allow for gathering and darts around the doors and windows.
Prior to installing the tarpaulin around the perimeter, window and door edges are caulked and sealed. Along the bottom of the wall segments, a strip of Velcro is fastened. The tarpaulin will extend one inch below the bottom of the wall, so that water will run off and away from the floor. After wrapping the tarp around the yurt walls and temporarily holding it in place, six 15-foot long ratchet tie-downs are connected and tightened along the upper perimeter of the walls, permanently fixing the wall tarp into place.
Walls are now complete.
The next article will describe how to construct the roof rafters and install the assembly onto the yurt.

Regulations Stand in Way of Yurt Independence

Attempting to try to live life a little differently from the “norm” is a lot like trying to outrun Usain Bolt while he is running the 100 yard dash and you are doing the hurdles. It is more than a challenge; it is a nightmare.
Lucky for us, when we began to plan the building of our yurt, we were aware of the myriad of building code, zoning and environmental issues that we had to overcome.
First, the building code. Although the universal building code is intended to provide a consistent standard of construction across Canada (and the USA), each jurisdiction is empowered to tinker with its specifics. In cities, of course, there is a need for consistency, to protect neighbours, to ensure fire risks are minimized and to protect future occupants of a home or building. Yet, each geographical area has its own challenges, so supplementary regulations are enacted. To a lesser degree, in rural settings, these standards are upheld.
However, the plethora of farm buildings that are constructed to meet unique needs – hay barns, cattle calving pens, machine sheds, etc. are hardly likely to become homes for families, so standards for outbuildings are less stringent. Many rural authorities turn a blind eye to poorly constructed shelters and outbuildings.
Nonetheless, innovative structures such as straw houses, bermed buildings and alternative design concepts are rejected by community planners. In fact, such a simple variation on a basement such as construction with pressure-treated lumber instead of concrete requires an engineer’s stamp of approval.
Many authorities also require adherence (justifiably so!) to environmental regulations. Waste disposal is just one of these concerns. However, even the height of a wind turbine is regulated. Over a specific height will require an environmental site assessment, a permit, and appropriate lighting to warn off low-flying aircraft. This regulation is enforced, even in extremely remote environments, where many of the trees or geographical features exceed the height requirements for permitting.
We have made several concessions to our local authorities regarding construction standards. However, our design may still violate legal requirements. For instance, our interior walls are not fire-rated to the minimum one hour. It’s hard to fire-rate a tarpaulin structure for that period! We have no holding tank. Not much need when we anaerobically digest our effluent, and use composting toilets. We do not have concrete piles to anchor our structure. It is overkill to anchor a structure that weighs about the same as a half-ton truck. Our bedroom does not have a regulation-sized escape window. On the other hand, our bedroom has no walls, and the rest of the yurt has four windows and a door. We have no electrical network that is inspected. Truth is, we have only a 12-volt power system with an inverter for some minor appliances, but a home does need wiring and plumbing, according to the building code.
So, we do not have a home. Our yurt is a “temporary” structure, like a workshop or barn, not intended to live within. At least, that is how our municipality sees it. I look forward to spending my retirement years living in my barn, thank you!